How to Install a Wheelie Bar on a Mini Bike | Step-by-Step Guide

Installing a wheelie bar on a mini bike takes 15 to 25 minutes with the right kit — no welding, no drilling, no fabrication. This guide walks through the complete process for the FRP Wheelie Bar on GMB100 series bikes, with notes on where the process differs for universal-fit kits on Coleman or Baja frames.

If you're still deciding which wheelie bar to buy, start with the Complete Wheelie Bar Guide before coming back here.

Before You Start: Compatibility Check

The FRP Wheelie Bar is a direct bolt-on for:

• FRP GMB100
• FRP GMB100P
• FRP GMB100U
• FRP GMB100 Frame (standalone)
• Oryxearth 99cc
• Oryxearth 105cc

If your bike is not on this list, you'll need a universal-fit kit or a DIY build. The installation process is similar in concept but will require measuring your rear frame width and possibly shimming the bracket to achieve proper centering. Our DIY Wheelie Bar Build Guide covers the custom route in detail.

Tools and Parts You Need

For the FRP Wheelie Bar Kit (all hardware included in the box):

Additional recommended tools (not required, but helpful):

• Tape measure or ruler (for height verification)
• Torque wrench (target: 20–25 Nm on all M8 bolts)
• A second person to hold the bike upright during installation

Safety note: Always work on a cool engine. Let the bike sit for at least 30 minutes after riding before installation.

Step-by-Step Installation: FRP Wheelie Bar on GMB100

Step 1: Position the Bike

Place the GMB100 on flat, level ground. Engage the parking brake if equipped, or have a second person hold the bike upright. You'll be working at the rear of the frame — you need clear access to both sides of the rear frame rails behind the engine.

Locate the rear frame mounting holes. On the GMB100, these are the pre-drilled M8 holes on both sides of the rear frame section, positioned behind and slightly above the rear axle. These are the same holes the FRP wheelie bar bracket base is engineered to use.

Step 2: Attach the Bracket Base (Do Not Tighten Yet)

Hold the bracket base against the rear frame, aligning the pre-drilled holes in the bracket with the mounting holes in the frame. Feed the M8 × 35mm long bolts through from the outside of the frame on each side. Thread the nuts on finger-tight only — do not tighten at this stage. The bracket needs to remain moveable so you can set height in Step 5.

Common mistake: Many riders fully tighten the bracket base at this step and then find they can't adjust the angle of the connecting rods. Always keep everything loose until Step 5.

Step 3: Attach the Connecting Rods

Insert the two connecting rods into the bracket base slots, one on each side. Each rod has multiple position holes — choose the center hole for initial setup. The rods should angle backward and downward from the bracket base toward the rear of the bike. Thread the securing bolts finger-tight to hold the rods in place while you continue.

Step 4: Install the Rear Axle and Wheels

Thread the 310mm rear axle through the lowest (rearmost) hole in both connecting rods. Slide one 24mm axle spacer onto the axle at each side, between the rod and the wheel. Mount the soft-compound wheels on each end of the axle. Secure with the M8 × 25mm short bolts. Again, finger-tight only for now.

Check that both wheels are centered relative to the bike frame from the rear. If one side sits noticeably further out than the other, recheck your axle spacer placement.

Step 5: Set the Height

This is the most critical step. Roll the bike outside onto flat pavement and sit on it in your normal riding position. With your weight on the bike, measure the distance from the bottom of the wheelie bar wheels to the ground.

Target height: 1.5 to 2 inches (38–50mm) off the ground with rider weight applied.

To adjust height, slide the connecting rods to a different position hole in the bracket base. Moving the rods to a higher hole raises the wheelie bar wheels. Moving them to a lower hole brings the wheels closer to the ground.

Once you've found the correct height, hold everything in position and begin tightening. Start with the bracket base bolts (M8 × 35mm) to 20–25 Nm. Then tighten the connecting rod bolts. Then the axle bolts securing the wheels.

Tightening sequence matters: Always work inward to outward — bracket base first, then rods, then axle. This prevents the bracket from shifting position as you torque down the outer hardware.

Step 6: Final Hardware Check

Go through every bolt one more time in sequence. Try to wiggle the wheelie bar laterally — there should be zero play. Try to push the connecting rods up and down — again, zero movement with everything torqued down.

Spin both wheels by hand. They should rotate freely with no side wobble. If a wheel feels stiff or grinds, recheck the axle spacer — an over-tightened axle bolt can bind the wheel.

Step 7: Test Ride

Start with a slow straight-line pass at parking-lot speed. Listen and feel for any scraping or contact with the ground. There should be none during normal riding at your height setting.

Make a few moderate acceleration passes. The wheelie bar should remain silent and not affect bike handling in any noticeable way.

Then make one controlled half-throttle acceleration pass in first gear. If the front wheel rises, confirm the wheelie bar makes controlled contact with the pavement before the bike reaches a dangerous angle. If the front wheel rises more than about 20–25 degrees before contact, raise the bar (bring wheels closer to ground). If the bar is dragging during the acceleration run, lower it (move wheels further from ground).

Installation on Universal-Fit Kits (Coleman, Baja, Others)

Universal kits follow the same general process, but you'll encounter two differences:

Bracket centering: Most universal kits use a clamp-style bracket rather than a bolt-through design. Clamp brackets mount to the frame tube itself. Measure the width between your rear frame rails before ordering any kit and confirm the bracket adjustable range covers your measurement.

Shimming: If your rear frame rail outer width doesn't exactly match the bracket's natural spacing, you'll need steel shims (typically 3–6mm thick, available at any hardware store) to center the axle beneath the bike. Don't skip this step — an off-center wheelie bar will cause handling pull when it makes contact.

Drilling: Some universal kits require drilling new bolt holes in your frame. Use a step drill bit to get clean holes, and treat the bare metal with rust-inhibiting paint before installing hardware.

How to Remove the Wheelie Bar

Removal is the reverse of installation and takes under 5 minutes once you're familiar with the hardware:

1. Loosen and remove the axle bolts and slide the axle out — keep the spacers and wheels together
2. Remove the connecting rod securing bolts and pull the rods free
3. Remove the bracket base bolts and set the bracket aside

Store the wheelie bar hardware in a zip-lock bag in your garage or storage box so you can reinstall quickly. Remove the bar for off-road riding, steep hills, or any terrain where the bar could catch in a rut.

Maintenance After Installation

Build these into your routine after the first few rides:

• After ride 1 and 2: Re-torque all bolts. New hardware compresses under load and vibration loosens fasteners faster in the early use period.
• Every 5 rides: Check bracket base bolts and connecting rod bolts. Check wheel spin — add a small amount of light machine oil to the axle if wheels become stiff.
• Monthly: Inspect the soft-compound wheels for flat spots or grooves from ground contact. Replace when the contact surface is visibly worn.
• After any hard wheelie bar contact: Inspect the bracket base mount points on the frame for stress cracks before the next ride.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a torque wrench to install a wheelie bar? Technically no — but it helps. Without one, aim for "firmly snug" plus a quarter turn on M8 bolts. Over-tightening can strip threads in the frame; under-tightening causes vibration loosening. A basic 1/4" drive torque wrench handles the 20–25 Nm spec and costs about $20 at any auto parts store.

My wheelie bar wheels are touching the ground during normal riding. What's wrong? The bar is set too low. Move the connecting rods to a higher position hole to increase ground clearance. Recheck height with rider weight on the bike, not just the bike at rest.

The front wheel is coming up past 30 degrees before the bar makes contact. Is something wrong? The bar is set too high. Move the connecting rods to a lower position hole to bring the wheels closer to the ground. Verify height with the rider seated.

Can I install a wheelie bar without a second person? Yes, but it's harder. Use a bike stand to hold the GMB100 upright while you work. The main challenge is aligning both sides of the bracket base simultaneously — a second set of hands makes this considerably easier.

Will the wheelie bar interfere with my chain or rear sprocket? On the GMB100, no — the wheelie bar bracket is mounted forward of the rear sprocket and the connecting rods route clear of the chain line. Always do a visual check after installation to confirm there's no contact between the rods and chain during suspension travel.

You're Ready

Once your wheelie bar is installed and tested, you're ready to start practicing. If you haven't yet worked through the technique side of wheelie riding, our How to Do a Wheelie on a Mini Bike guide covers the step-by-step technique for beginners — specifically for gas mini bikes like the GMB100.

Don't have your wheelie bar yet? The FRP Wheelie Bar ships with all hardware and the installation wrench included. , and it fits the GMB100 series without any modifications.